Fashion as Photograph
(the body in fashion photography)
The relationship between photographer, model and product. And how that power relationship of representation reflects on photography.
Ghost Mannequin, the body becomes invisible.
First permanent photographs
Nicephore Niepces's earliest surving photograph of a scene from nature, circa 1826.
Louis Daguerre was a student of Nicephore, when he died Louis took over his works.
Boulevard de temple, 1838/9
A pair of figures in the bottom left corner, they were recorded because they were there for a long enough time for the image to be recorded.
William Henry Fox Talbot
- invented a fixing process
- Calotype- process using silver nitrate (as in black and white negative used in chemical processing today)
Lady Alice Mary Kerr's Portrait of Wilfrid Scawen Blunt, 1870
Virginia Oldoini, Countess di Castglione, photographed by Adolphe Braun, 1856
She commissioned photos to be taken of herself in her gowns, in a way she is the director of the photo shoot.
Sexual overtone to the photos with the use of a lot of masks.
She acts out her own political history
Age of the fashion magazine
- improvements in the halftone printing (dot) process means photographs can be reproduced in magazines
- photography can now replace the use of illustrations
Paul Poiret (1879-1944)
- House of Worth (Charles Worth, father of haute culture)
- Freedom from corsetry
- Signature shapes - hobble skirt, harem pants
- Clothing cut along straight lines
- influences by antique dress
Edward Steichen photographs Paul Poirets designs for Art de Decoration, 1911
Pictorial photographer
Work featured in are magazine
Featured a style of the day
Soft grainy rendering to make it look like brush work
Adolf de Meyer, 1920's
Still got thing coming through characteristic of pictorial approach
Woman posing in wistful romantic way
Staring in thought
Martin Munkacsi, early to mid 1930's
capturing the movement, almost like a sport image (he was a news and sports photographer)
this influenced his photography with models
Casualness that fits with the interesting sport and health that became popular in the 1930's
Edward Steichen in high fashion
The clothing becomes an abstract triangle
The light, exposure of the pint is using the camera for its own qualities
La Mode Pratique, 1938
Fashion appearing on the covers of magazines
A lot of Vogue covers were still drawn and illustrated
Vogue vs. Harpers Bazaar
- leaders in the fashion photography in the 1920's 1930's
- Hounngen-Huene for HB
Hoyningen-Heune, 1931 (Madama Vionnet)
the female body represents a mythical beauty
Romanticise and aspire to
Horst P Horst costume for Salvador Dali's Dream of Venus (1939)
Extremely surreal
Reflects the interested that surrealists have in dreamlike
Reflect fantasy and reality
Cecil Beaton (1904-1980)
Birtish Vogue and Vanity Fair
Photographed and was a member of the 'B Young Things' of the 1920's/30's
Photographs British Royals
Prolific Dairist
Vivien Leigh for Vogue, mod 1930's
Worked with the most prominent actresses of the day
He placed her in the backstage scenery
Placed in the wings, almost not in the lime light
not the transition studio photography
Glimpse into the glamourous world that we do not see
Lighting - creating a dramatic scene where she is almost acting a part
Stephen Tennant by Cecil Beaton
Bohemian characters which Beaton was friends with
Queen Elizabeth II IN 1968
The room she is photographed in reflects her wealth
In her home, places the royals into a glamourous setting
Lee Miller (1907-1977)
American Photographer and fashion model at 19
She socialised with the avant-garde photographers and artist
Photographs harsh documentaries
Louise Dahl Wolfe
Worked at Harpers Bazaar
Married to a sculpture
Night Bathing, 1939
Clever lighting to draw attention to the real body and the body which is represented through stone
Doubling up - playing on our perception
Panorama of Paris, Suzy Parker in Jacque Fath Gown, 1953
Figure in the foreground and the figure in the background is a high contrast
1940'-50's
William Klien, 1950's
Bringing a documentary style into photography
David Bailey (1938-)
Mick Jagger
Brian Duffy Jean Shrimpton on the Edgeware Road, 1960
Models are more accessible
Fashion images which are heavily influenced by the documentary
The emergence of youth culture
Sexual liberation
Bill Curry, Drifter, Interstate 40, Yukon, Oklahoma, from the American West, 1985
Helmut Newton (1920, 2004)
Vogue and Harpers Bazaar
well known for photographing the nude
The power body
Self Portrait of his wife and models, includes his wife sat at the side looking on at the models
Includes himself
Backwards and forwards of the image
Reminds us that we are looking at the same way that he is looking at the body
His wife is his way of answering back the criticisms
Guy Bourdin for Charles Jourdan Shoes
reducing the body to the part which is appropriate
Leg and shoe
Jamel Shabazz, Back in the days, published in 2002
the Hip-Hop scene in NYC
Published later than it was photographed
He was part of the culture
People who he lives with
Interesting documentation of the the street fashion at the time
I-D Magazine vs The face
Jeurgen Teller (1964)
Heroin Chic
Pre-photoshop realism
Poppy Dinsey, 2011
What I wore today, fashion blog
Stance, holding the mobile phone away from the face
wiwt.com
Not about the quality of the images
Document of the personal side of fashion
Company magazine
20 or more fashion bloggers celebrated
Put forward as a way into employment
Seems to celebrate 'real' and 'street' fashion
Exacitudes - Ari Versluis (photographer) and Ellie Uyteenbrock (stylist)
Neighbours, Rotterdam 2008
Casettes gang, London 2008
group people into similar fashion groups
telling us that individuality is almost not possible in a global fashion world.
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